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The best drainage system in the world is only as good as it’s sump pump. Your pump should be tested at least twice a year. Make plans to do it as part of your Spring and Fall maintenance of your home. To test the pump, fill the basin with water to the level required to engage the pump (usually just above it). The pump should “kick” on and empty the basin. If it doesn’t, check the power source. If there is power to the pump and it does not turn on with the required water level you may have to replace your pump.

Spring is here and the forecast is calling for rain this week. It is important to take a few minutes around your house to ensure your basement stays dry. Make sure your downspouts are down and directed away from your foundation. Clean out any leaves and other debris that may have collected there over the winter so that the water can easily flow. If your sump pump discharge hose is still off after the winter, now is the time to put is back on and extend it away from your house. Window wells are great places for old newspapers and other winter “treasure” to collect. Time to clear them out. While you are in your yard, take a walk around the full perimeter of your house and look at the grade next to your foundation. Are there any low spots where water is collecting?

Back inside your house, it is time for your spring sump pump check. If the basin is collecting water and your sump pump is “kicking on” great news – just ensure the discharge path is clear. If the basin is dry, fill it with water to ensure the pump turns on when the level of water reaches the trigger point (should be just above the level of the pump). If the basin is full of water and the pump does not turn on, check the float switch to ensure it is not stuck in the down position.  If the float switch is clear and it still will not kick on, check the power source. If the float switch is clear, there is power to the pump and it still will not turn on, you may need to look at replacing the pump.

If you do find water coming into your basement, please give us a call – we would be happy to come out and have a look!

People ask us all the time when they’re finishing the basement which cracks are the most important to be fixed. Should we just fix the big ones? What about the cracks that have never leaked?

The simplest answer: repair all of them. We can’t predict which cracks are going to be an issue in the future and which ones are not. In our experience, there is no correlation between the size of crack and how much water it will let in. We have repaired hairline cracks that have let in so much water that a shop vac had a hard time keeping up.  Conversely, we have had cracks wide enough to see daylight through that have never leaked.

When dealing with concrete in our climate, there is also the freeze/thaw cycle to consider – just ask the City of Edmonton about this cycle’s impact on our roads! Even with no signs of leaking, a foundation crack can hold moisture. When this moisture freezes, it expands, forcing the crack slightly wider. Over time, if water is allowed to continually freeze and thaw inside the crack, the possibility of water intrusion will increase as the crack widens.

Any crack has the potential for water intrusion. The most cost-effective and least disruptive time to repair a crack is prior to covering it with studs, insulation and drywall. The best approach in this situation is to be proactive and save yourself any chance of future headaches.